Look for daily specials, local ales, and simple sandwiches rather than a long menu that tries to do everything.
There is a particular art to ordering a proper country pub lunch. Get it right and you end up with a plate of local ham, a slab of cheese, a pint brewed five miles away, and a view of a dale that makes you forget the motorway. Get it wrong and you are staring at a laminated menu the size of a broadsheet, wondering why a pub in the Yorkshire Dales is offering nachos. The trick is to read the room, trust the blackboard, and keep your order simple.
Before you look at the menu, look at the pub. In the Yorkshire Dales and wider British uplands — the Pennines, the North York Moors, the Lake District, the Cheviots — the best places are often the least flashy. Flagged floors, settles, a fire in the grate, a dog asleep by the bar. If the car park is full of pickups and walking boots, you are in the right place. If the walls are covered in laminated signs about not eating your own food, you are probably in a tourist trap.
Ask yourself who is eating. Locals on their lunch break, farmers in for a pint, walkers with muddy trousers — that is a good sign. A menu that tries to do everything is a warning. A kitchen with a small fridge and a big grill cannot do Thai green curry, pizza, lasagne, and a proper steak pie all well. Something has to give, and it is usually the thing you actually wanted.
In a proper country pub, the printed menu is often just a formality. The real business is on the blackboard: today's pie, soup of the day, the fish that came in this morning, the lamb from the farm up the road. If the board says home-made, ask what that means. It should mean made in that kitchen, not assembled from a catering pack.
A proper country pub lunch is not a tasting menu. It is a sandwich made with thick-cut ham, a slice of strong cheddar, a spoonful of pickle, and bread that tastes of something. It is a pie with a real pastry case — shortcrust or suet — not a stew with a puff-pastry lid dropped on top. It is a ploughman's that includes cheese, pickle, pork pie, apple, and a hunk of bread, not a sad salad with a few cubes of supermarket cheese.
If you are hungry, order the pie. If you are not, order the sandwich. If you are somewhere between, order the soup and a sandwich, or the ploughman's to share. In the Dales, look for ham cooked on the bone, Wensleydale cheese with fruitcake, or a pork pie with piccalilli. In the Pennines, expect oatcakes, black pudding, and a bowl of mushy peas. In the Lake District, look for Cumberland sausage and sticky toffee pudding. In the North York Moors, a crab sandwich or a smoked kipper might be the best thing on the board.
Do not be afraid to ask for something plain. A cheese sandwich with proper chutney is a fine lunch. A bowl of chips and a pint is a fine lunch. The pub lunch is not a competition. It is a pleasure.
The beer is part of the lunch. In the uplands, many pubs serve local ales from small breweries — often with names that sound like a walk or a weather forecast. Ask for a taster before you commit. A good barman will let you try a mouthful of two or three. If the pump clip is turned round, the beer is off. If the beer is served too cold, it will taste of nothing. If it is served too warm, it will taste of wet cardboard. The sweet spot is cellar cool, not ice cold.
Ask about the cheese too. In the Yorkshire Dales, Wensleydale is the obvious choice, but look for Swaledale, Coverdale, or a blue from a nearby farm. In the wider uplands, try Lancashire, Cheshire, Stilton, or a smoked cheese from a local smokehouse. If the pub does a cheese board, ask what is local and what is not. A good pub will know.
Timing is everything. Many rural pubs shut between 3pm and 6pm, especially out of season. If you want a late lunch, check the hours before you set off. Sunday lunch is the busiest sitting of the week; book ahead, or arrive early. In the Dales, a table by the window at 12.30pm is worth more than a Michelin star. In the Pennines, a seat by the fire at 2pm is a prize.
In a proper pub, you usually order at the bar. Note your table number if there is one. Do not expect table service unless the pub is trying to be something it is not. Ask if the kitchen is still serving. Ask if the pie takes twenty minutes, because a proper pie does. Ask if the sandwich comes with crisps or chips, and order accordingly. If you want chips, say so. If you want a second pint, catch the barman's eye before the bell goes.
Pudding is not compulsory, but it is a good idea. Look for sticky toffee pudding, treacle sponge, crumble with custard, or a slice of fruitcake with Wensleydale. If the pub makes its own ice cream, try it. If the pudding is brought in frozen, you will know. A proper country pub lunch ends with a cup of tea or a small coffee, not a mountain of foam.
Pay at the bar unless told otherwise. Check whether the pub takes card; most do now, but some remote upland pubs still prefer cash or have a minimum spend. If you are walking, ask about the path back. A landlord or landlady often knows which bridleway is muddy, which gate is broken, and which field has a bull in it. That local knowledge is part of the lunch.
And if you find a hidden gem — a pub with a blackboard, a fire, a local ale, and a ham sandwich that tastes of the place — do not tell everyone. Tell the people who will appreciate it. Order simply, eat slowly, and leave the long menu for the towns.
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Matthew Kuhnemann
8/2/2024
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