These carved posts and painted boards often hide puns, legends, and centuries of parish pride waiting to be noticed.
Most of us pass a village sign at 40 mph and register nothing but the name. In the Yorkshire Dales and the wider British uplands, that is a mistake. These carved oak posts, painted boards and cast-iron plates are often the most idiosyncratic thing in the parish: part boundary marker, part in-joke, part small monument to stubborn local pride. Many went up in the 1970s, paid for by a parish council with help from the WI or a local craftsman. A second wave arrived in 2000, when millennium oak sprouted on greens from Arkengarthdale to the Eden Valley. Because they were made locally, they encode local obsessions — sheep, lead, knitting, water, a rumoured dragon, and the memory of a boundary dispute with the parish next door.
They are free, they are outdoors, and they give a walk a storyline. Ten minutes spent reading one can explain a place name you have been puzzling over for miles. A good sign is also a date stamp: the lettering, the fixings and the choice of timber will tell you roughly which decade of parish pride you are looking at.
Upland carvers are not shy of the obvious. The best of these signs are visual etymologies, taking the village name at face value: a kettle beside a spring at Kettlewell, an apple tree for Appletreewick, a bench for Settle, a bridge for Bainbridge. Whether or not the derivation is sound is beside the point; what matters is that somebody in the parish decided the joke was worth four hundred pounds of oak and a working party on a Saturday morning.
Hamlet names do the same work more quietly. Crackpot, above Swaledale, and Booze, in Arkengarthdale, practically beg for a visual gag; some places have taken the bait, others have stiffly resisted, and the refusal is a story in itself. Elsewhere the humour is drier — a sign showing the wrong number of sheep, a mill wheel carved where the mill burned down, a date that does not match the plaque on the church wall. If a sign looks slightly smug, it usually is.
Plenty of signs carry a creature from the arms of the local big house: lions, boars, griffins, the occasional mermaid. Upland England also has a rich seam of dragon and worm legends that carvers have happily borrowed. The Dragon of Wantley, near Sheffield, was dispatched by More of More Hall with a spiked shoe in a distinctly undignified place, and the ballad is still enjoyed locally. Handale, on the northern edge of the North York Moors, has its own serpent-slaying tale, while further north the Lambton Worm is carved and cast all over the Wear valley.
A useful trick when you are standing in front of one: check whether the beast is a lion or a boar. Where a family married into the manor and quietly changed its arms, the older animal sometimes survives on the sign long after the heraldic records have moved on.
The most affecting signs are the ones that record work. Lead mining left its mark on villages such as Gunnerside, Langthwaite and Nenthead, where picks, cog and ore trucks appear on the posts. Hand-knitting was the winter economy of Dentdale and the Howgills — the "terrible knitters" worked at such a pace that the phrase became a compliment — and bobbins and needles turn up on carved posts across that corner of the Dales. Hawes remembers rope making, Reeth and Muker remember sheep, and nearly everybody remembers a cow, a curlew or a fell race.
Look out too for signs that are really maps: a parish boundary, an old packhorse route, a line of intake walls, a row of tiny field names — Outgang, Intack, Cote, Slack. These are the names your OS map leaves out.
The habit travels well. In the Eden Valley and the North Pennines, posts at Alston and Nenthead carry lead-mining motifs and the odd spoil heap. In the Peak District, Castleton's signs nod to the Garland and to the parish's mining past, while Eyam's name arrives with the plague story attached. Northumberland's uplands offer Elsdon, Blanchland and the border reiver country, where a carved tower or a raven on a post tells you exactly which side of an old quarrel you are standing on. Even the Howgills, those soft green hills between Sedbergh and the motorway, have their own modest posts and plaques — easy to miss, and worth the detour.
None of this takes long. A sign is a two-minute stop, a photograph, a shrug at a pun. But collect a few and the uplands begin to read differently: less like scenery, more like a place that has been argued over, worked and quietly boasting about it for centuries.
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Matthew Kuhnemann
8/2/2024
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